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Destinations >Katahdin

Check out Jon Tierney's Guide to Winter Travel in Baxter State Park!
Katahdin Winter Ascent Weekend
Visit our schedule for dates and rates
Looking for the next step beyond Mount Washington? A winter ascent of Katahdin is a great choice. It's remote location and arctic environment make this one of the most rewarding winter alpine ascents in New England. Our climb begins with a half day ski into the base of the mountain to a winter camp where basic winter camping skills and relevant mountaineering skills are taught and reviewed. We start the climb early the next morning and return in time to ski back to trailhead. This trip is physically demanding but requires no previous winter climbing or camping experience.
Slide show from a trip
ICE CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING ROUTES
Katahdin offers the most remote winter ice climbing and mountaineering in New England. Whether you choose a summit climb or a challenging ice and snow route on the basin headwalls, its long approach combined with the usual winter challenges make any climb extremely rewarding.
| Pamola's Fury (III, NEI 3+) |
The Chimney (II, NEI 2) |
| Waterfall Gully (IV, NEI 4+) |
Cilley-Barber Route (IV, NEI 4) |
| Dougal's Delight (II, NEI 3) |
Pamola Ice Cliffs (II, NEI 5) |
Do you have aspirations to climb in the greater alpine ranges of the world? There is no better training ground than a few winter days on Katahdin to prepare you for peaks such as Rainier, Denali, or Aconcagua. This is a physically demanding, intensive 5 - 10 day course covering the many aspects of expeditioning and winter mountaineering. These include equipment and food preparation; sled and ski set up; winter camping skills including preparing tents and snow shelters, stove repair, snow kitchens, and tips and tricks for sleeping warm; snow and ice climbing skills; self rescue skills; navigation and route finding using maps, compasses and altimeters; avalanche assessment and rescue skills and many more.
Reservations for winter climbing on Katahdin should be made as soon as possible in the fall in order to obtain space and meet park permit guidelines. A minimum of four days is usually required. Call for details.
Customized Winter Trips to Katahdin and Baxter State Park
Alpine climbing, steep ice climbing, avalanche skills, backcountry skiing? Katahdin is New England's most remote alpine peak and offers a flavor of mountaineering adventure equivalent to an Alaskan peak. Let us design a trip to meet your needs.
Reservations for winter climbing on Katahdin should be made as soon as possible in the fall in order to obtain space and meet park permit guidelines. A minimum of four days is usually required.
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SUMMER ROCK CLIMBING
Technical Ascents of Katahdin
New England's classic alpine peak offers several classic rock climbing routes that can be climbed in a single long day car to car. Katahdin's steep broken headwalls have been compared to routes in the Tetons.
< A View of The Chimney Route from The Armadillo
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Rock climbing on Katahdin rivals western alpine climbing and many compare the quality of the rock and the setting to that of the Tetons. The majority of climbs involve all the ingredients of a great day in the mountains - a predawn departure, a 3 - 4 miles approach to warm you up, lots of 3rd and 4th class scrambling terrain with a little bushwacking thrown in followed by the reward of some great rock climbing in a spectacular setting. And then you have to get down. Most climbs on Katahdin require a 10 - 14 hour day from car to car.
Some of Our Favorite Summer Routes...
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Armadillo Buttress (III, 5.8) The most popular route on the mountain straight up the striking central buttress in the South Basin cirque. Lots of airy 3rd - 4th class climbing lead to the base of the buttress. Then climb a chimney and squeeze behind the huge flake to emerge on on a tiny perch overlooking Chimney Pond and the entire south basin. From here, jam a striking crack to a sharp ridgeline which is followed for several hundred feet to the famed Knife Edge and the summit.

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Flatiron Buttress (III, 5.9) The crux tackles 165' of the best crack climbing on an alpine peak. The ridge tops out right on the summit of Katahdin.
Chimney (II, 5.5) Excellent introductory alpine route for the hiker making the transition into technical mountaineering routes. A mildly technical 2000' couloir that directly connects Chimney Pond to the Knife Edge. For the adventurous, this is a much more exciting way to the summit than the trails. Typically a 12 hour day car to car.
Pamola Four (III, 5.5-5.8) A long (7-12 pitches) and varied ridge line. A great introduction to alpine climbing with outstanding exposure and great views.
Hanta Yo (III, 5.8) The most popular route in the north basin.
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